Color Theory Can Help You Pick Your Best Hair Color—Here's How

Color theory is one of the most useful tools in art and design, and you might have even used it when applying makeup—like bringing out the color of your eyes with an opposing hue) The concept can also be applied when choosing a hair color, zeroing in on undertones and how they pair with your complexion and other features. On top of that, lots of hair salons are offering color analysis consultants to go through the process professionally.

Ready to dabble in color matchmaking? Follow this quick guide on how to use color theory to find the best hair color for you.

What Is Color Theory?
Color theory starts with the “color wheel,” which is a round diagram featuring “pie slices” of primary, secondary, and tertiary hues. The idea is that opposite colors (like blue and orange) create striking contrast while neighboring hues (like blue and green) are more subtle. While we typically see the color wheel in art applications, it absolutely comes in handy for hair color (which is an art in and of itself).

“Color theory is the foundation of every great colorist’s work since it helps with understanding how hues interact, how to balance warm and cool tones, and how to enhance a guest’s natural features, allowing for a unique and custom color specifically suited to that guest,” explains Janell Geason, executive director of Aveda Technical Education.


Heard of Seasonal Color Analysis? This method actually applies color theory to personal coloring—your skin tone, hair, and eye color—to determine which hues flatter you most, explains Briana Martin, professional hair colorists in Miami Beach and Sarasota, Fla. They're divided into Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter, each tied to specific undertones and intensity levels. By matching your season, you can choose colors that enhance your natural features rather than overwhelm them. The same concept can also extend to your hair color.

How to Use Color Theory for Hair Color
Follow this step by step guide on finding your most flattering hair colors via the color theory method.

Step 1: Analyze Your Complexion Undertones
The first step is to determine whether you have warm, cool, or neutral undertones. Martin says to look at your veins—bluish means cool, greenish means warm, and a mix suggests neutral. You can also see how your skin reacts to jewelry; silver tends to flatter cool tones while gold suits warm tones.

Generally speaking, warm pairs best with warm while cool pairs best with cool. “Warm undertones pair well with golden, honey, or copper shades, while cool undertones suit ashy, icy, or cool brunette tones. Neutral skin tones can wear a range of colors,” says Alanah Kenyon, stylist and owner of Studio Linea.

Step 2: Factor in Your Natural Hair & Eye Color
Next, factor in your natural hair and eye color. “Looking at the client’s natural depth and pigment gives clues on what shades will enhance or contrast beautifully,” says Kenyon. And if you want to make your eyes pop then you’d go with a hair color on the opposite side of the spectrum. “ Rich, golden hues can make blue or green eyes pop, while cooler tones emphasize hazel or deep brown eyes,” Kenyon explains.

Step 3: Focus on Balance Versus Hard Rules
Color theory can guide your hair choices, but real-world application is all about balance and nuanced choices.

“For example, just because someone has warm undertones doesn’t mean they can’t wear cool hair colors—we just have to tweak the shades,” Kenyon says. “A client with warm undertones who wants ash blonde may need a hint of warmth in their gloss to keep them from looking washed out.”

She says she also uses contrast strategically. For instance, if someone has green eyes, adding warm copper tones will make them pop, while a soft, cool brown might create a more subtle, elegant effect.

Geason agrees. She adds, “Someone with cool skin can still wear warm tones if they’re customized correctly; maybe they’d wear a golden beige instead of an overly warm copper.” And someone with warm undertones might shy away from cool hair colors like ash blonde, but a neutral beige blonde or a cool tone with subtle golden lowlights can strike the right balance.

The goal is to create a harmonious, healthy-looking result that complements your skin beautifully, and the best hair colorists can do this with ease.

Step 4: Consider Your Maintenance Preferences
Finally, make sure to factor in your own preferences and the upkeep. Just because a hair color looks great on you doesn’t mean it’s the right pick based on your lifestyle or hair goals. “I always ask, ‘What do you want your hair maintenance schedule and budget to look like?’ A bright, cool blonde might require more maintenance and toning sessions, while a soft, blended brunette might only need touch-ups every few months,” Kenyon says.

Maybe you’re in a season of going full drama, or perhaps you want to keep things easy for a little bit. Let this guide your decisions while sitting in the salon chair.