Marquise Layers Are the Perfect Way to Frame Your Face—Here's How to Style Them

Over the last year we’ve seen a strong return of full bodied hair a la the ‘90s blowout, feathered ‘70s coiffures, and big ‘80s manes. That said, the fact that marquise layers have officially made a comeback shouldn’t come as much of a surprise. Inspired by the facets of a marquise gemstone cut, this layered hairstyle is cropping up everywhere. So what are marquise layers exactly, and why are they having such a moment right now? We’ve got answers, along with a step-by-step guide on how to style marquise layers.
What Are Marquise Layers?
Marquise layers put an edgier, fuller twist on face-framing layers. Unlike traditional, uniform layers, the technique creates “finely detailed texture starting from the forehead and widening around the eyes and cheekbones, then comes back inward,”—kind of like the shape of a marquise-cut gemstone, says Katelyn Ellsworth, hairstylist and founder of The Roslyn Salon in San Diego, Calif. The layers are usually styled away from the face and with some volume oomph for that quintessential ‘70s/’80s aesthetic.

Today’s Modern Marquise Layers
Fashion and beauty trends, including how we style our hair, often circle back every decade or two. Given that they were super popular in the ‘70s and early ‘80s, and that they had a bit of a resurgence in the ‘10s, their return is right on time.

“We are seeing a rise in heavy layers in medium to long hair that gently flare away from the face at the cheekbone, reminiscent of Gisele Bündchen’s look from 2014,” says Theingi Tun, hairstylist at Alliage Salon and Spa. “A great example of this look can be seen on the recent cover of People magazine, where Allison Holker confidently showcases her long locks with soft curls parted down the center showing off her high cheekbones.”

Marquise layers are basically today’s contrasting answer to the super sleek, pin-straight hair that reigned for so long, and it’s also a nice shift away from the choppy ‘90s styles (like the octopus cut and shag) that’ve been popular for a while now.

They have been given a bit of a modern day twist, though. Today’s marquise layers tend to be softer, more blended, and less structured than those iterations of yesteryear. Instead of harsh, exaggerated layers, modern versions focus on seamless movement and blending for a more natural, but still full look.

How to Style Marquise Layers
Marquise layers are best for shoulder length to long hair, and they’re meant to create the look of more fullness and volume. If that sounds like what you’re going after, then go for it! Then make sure you follow these tips.

Step 1: Apply Heat Protectant
Always start with a heat protecting and/or a blowout product, Ellsworth says. Apply evenly from root to tip.

Step 2: Apply a Root Boosting Spray
Volume is key for marquise layers. “For styling, I recommend using a root-boosting product combined with a volumizing foam to enhance movement throughout the lengths and ends,” says Tun.

Step 3: Use a Round Brush or Hot Tool to Style
Styling marquise layers is pretty straightforward. Tun says you can use either a round brush and blow dryer, or you can add a bit of a bend with a hot tool. Make sure to pull the hair away from the face as you work.
Step 4: Get More Volume With Rollers
“Once each section is complete, reach for trusty Velcro rollers—yes, they’re still a fantastic tool for setting your style while it cools, ensuring it lasts all day,” Tun says.

Step 5: Finish with Hairspray
Finish with a light to medium-hold hairspray to lock everything in place. Gently brush it out with a wide-tooth comb to blend and allow for natural movement.