The Best Way to Exfoliate Dry Winter Skin, According to Derms

You’re not imagining it. Your skin really is more dull right now (and those flaky bits really are more prevalent) now that winter’s in full swing. One of the best ways to tackle winter dullness is to exfoliate, but you can’t just go ham with a physical scrub or chemical product. Along with being drier, skin also tends to be more sensitive in the colder months, which requires a more nuanced approach to exfoliating. For the full rundown, we asked dermatologists about the right way to exfoliate skin during winter.
Why Is Skin Duller in Winter?
During winter months in colder climates, the air is drier and there’s less humidity or moisture in the air, which means there is less moisture in the skin, explains Anthony Rossi, MD, FAAD, FACMS, a board-certified dermatologist. Indoor heating can also increase dryness, and the combination of cold winds and harsh temperatures can further strip the skin of its natural oils. The result is a dry, dull, and flaky complexion.

Can You Exfoliate Skin in Winter?
Not only are you “allowed” to exfoliate skin during winter, but it’s a good step to include in your routine. “Exfoliation can still help get rid of the dead skin cells that sit on top of the skin, called the stratum coreum,” Dr. Rossi says. “It’s helpful to exfoliate because it helps us renew the top layer of the epidermis.” However, he says that you must be careful not to over-exfoliate and cause inflammation in the skin, which can lead to cell damage and leave you worse for wear.

How to Exfoliate Skin in Winter
The lack of moisture in your skin (and in the air) naturally weakens your skin’s protective barrier, making it more prone to irritation and sensitivity. For that reason, Dr. Rossi says that “exfoliation in the winter is a balancing act.”

“Once a week [for facial skin] is usually a good rule of thumb if you are using manual exfoliation,” he says. “If you’re using a lighter chemical form of exfoliation, you can increase it usually to twice or three times per week.”

He says that a gentle lactic acid is a great exfoliator for the winter because it’s the most hydrating of the alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). It provides gentle chemical exfoliation without over-stripping the skin.

Another option is to switch to a gentle exfoliating facial cleanser—like one formulated with gentle enzymes, says Howard Sobel, MD, FACS, clinical attending cosmetic dermatologic surgeon at Lenox Hill Hospital in New York City. You can use this product daily or alternate it with a hydrating cleanser every other day depending on your skin’s needs.

The same applies to exfoliating the body. Physical scrubs made with salt and sugar can work on especially tough areas—like knees and elbows—but gentler scrubs or AHA/enzyme-based body cleansers are a gentler option that works, too.
Common Winter Exfoliation Mistakes
When exfoliating skin in winter, make sure to avoid these common mistakes.

Not Hydrating: Hydration is super important during the winter, Dr. Sobel says. Keeping skin well-hydrated helps keep the barrier strong and resilient, your complexion radiant, and allows you to exfoliate as needed without worrying about irritation or sensitivity. Moisturize immediately after exfoliating, and as part of your everyday routine.
Using Aggressive Scrubs: “I would avoid any microbes that can actually tear the skin,” Dr. Rossi says. “Exfoliating pads can sometimes be too harsh, especially if your skin is already dry to begin with.”
Over-Exfoliating: It may be tempting to exfoliate with various products or more frequently, but this can backfire. Stick to once or twice a week, and pay attention to what else you’re using in your routine. For example, retinol paired with AHAs may be too much.