There's No Such Thing as Hypoallergenic Skin Care—Here's What to Look for Instead

The skin care community throws around a lot of buzzwords. We’ve got slugging and sandwiching and skin cycling—all part of the greater beauty zeitgeist. Even brands get in on the action, coining marketing terms that may or may not have a formal definition. “Hypoallergenic skin care,” is one of those terms tossed around quite a bit, but what does it actually mean and does it hold any merit? We enlisted expert help to break down the term and teach us what to be wary of when shopping for products.
What Is Hypoallergenic Skin Care?
Broadly speaking, hypoallergenic skin care refers to products that are formulated to be less likely to cause or create an allergic reaction on someone's skin. We often see it on product labels geared toward those with sensitive skin types. This is the general understanding of the term in the skin care community, but the problem is that there are no regulations or standards set for what constitutes a hypoallergenic skin care product.

“The term can vary between brands because there is not a specific ingredient or universal standard for this, but it is a word that helps market towards those with sensitivity on their skin,” explains Lola Olivero, an esthetician and founder of Daily Habits Wellness Club in Miami, Fla. “Because ‘hypoallergenic’ isn’t strictly defined or regulated, it’s essentially a marketing claim that many brands have adopted.”

That said, just because a product has been labeled as hypoallergenic does not mean it will be good on your skin type. It could still contain irritating ingredients and there’s still a chance it could trigger certain allergies.

“Consumers that look at skincare products noted as hypoallergenic might think they all use similar ingredients, or choose to omit the same ingredients, and this just isn’t the case,” adds Corey L. Hartman, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Skin Wellness Dermatology in Birmingham, Ala.

What to Look for if You Have Sensitive Skin
So if the term hypoallergenic skin care is a bit nebulous—perhaps sometimes even misleading—what’s a person with sensitive skin supposed to look for when shopping for skin care products? Phrases like “non-comedogenic,” “hypoallergenic,” and “suitable for sensitive skin” can help provide some guidance, but Dr. Hartman suggests looking a bit deeper before handing over your cash.

“I advise patients that if they are allergic to certain ingredients—or certain ingredients cause irritation on their skin—to look for products without those ingredients in the formula versus just looking for hypoallergenic skin care products,” Dr. Hartman says. “Also, seek out moisturizing ingredients like ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and squalane, which are all often well-tolerated with sensitive skin.”

Ingredients to Avoid
Fragrances can often cause irritation on patients with sensitive skin. The great news, says Dr. Hartman, is that many brands are either formulating without fragrance or are offering fragrance-free options of some of their most popular products.
Dyes are another major offender for sensitive skin types, so try to avoid them when you can.
Alcohol can be quite drying on skin, Dr. Hartman cautions, so if this is a top ingredient in a formula it’s best to avoid it.
Exfoliants can help in some cases, but Olivera says to avoid overly aggressive formulas. Pull back usage if you notice your skin reacts negatively.
Lanolin has become a trendy ingredient in recent years, but this one can trigger acne flare ups or allergic reactions in some skin types, notes Howard Sobel, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist and clinical attending cosmetic dermatologic surgeon at Lenox Hill Hospital.
Nuts are another ingredient to avoid in skin care products, particularly if you have an allergy to any type of nut. Examples include almond oil and mandelic acid.
Sulfates and parabens aren’t necessarily all bad, but they can create allergic reactions for those with very sensitive skin so be mindful of them, Dr. Sobel says.
Generally speaking, Olivera says to adopt a “less is more” approach when shopping for skin care products. "Look for products with a short ingredient list. Sensitive skin needs to be nourished and protected. Focus on repairing your skin barrier, so your skin can stay calm and avoid being easily irritated.”