Why Everyone's Suddenly Talking About Madecassoside, the Soothing Ingredient Derms Love for Sensitive Skin

Once again, the social zeitgeist has spit out a new skincare trend that we're all told we need to try. But, unlike pore strips, microneedling at home, or tanning to get rid of acne, this trend has dermatologists' and estheticians' full support. We're not talking about a new skincare tool or product; we're talking about an ingredient—one that's safe for all skin types. Found in various serums, moisturizers, and pads, we'd love to introduce you to madecassoside.
What Is Madecassoside?
"Madecassoside is one of the most active ingredients found in the leaves of a Centella asiatica plant," explains Gabriella Vasile, MD, FACMS, a double board-certified dermatologist, fellowship-trained Mohs surgeon, and founder of Réforme Dermatology and Aesthetics. It can be used on all skin types, but Dr. Vasile specifically recommends it for patients with sensitive or acne-prone skin. "It's both anti-inflammatory and an antioxidant, so it's soothing for the skin and also reduces free radical formation," she says. Free radicals are unstable molecules that can damage your skin cells. They often lead to increased inflammation and irritation, which is why ingredients like madecassoside can be so beneficial.

The Centalla asiatica plant, commonly known as tiger grass, is native to the tropical and subtropical regions of Asia, making madecassoside one of the many skincare trends made popular by Korean beauty. Given the lasting popularity of K-beauty favorites like snail mucin and overnight sheet masks, madecassoside’s growing buzz feels like a natural next step. "My patients have been loving simple skincare regimens with hydrating ingredients, so it makes sense that a soothing product that helps to strengthen the skin barrier has been gaining popularity," says Dr. Vasile.

How And When to Use Madecassoside
Madecassoside's soothing properties don't just apply to sensitive and acne-prone skin—they can also be helpful for post-procedural healing. Toral Vaidya, MD, MPH, a board-certified dermatologist practicing at MDCS Dermatology in New York City, often reaches for madecassoside-containing products after performing laser or peel procedures on her patients to help calm irritated or inflamed skin. She also recommends it for patients with rosacea-prone skin.

There seem to be countless skin struggles that madecassoside can help remedy, but will using it interfere with your perfectly crafted daily skin care routine? Absolutely not. In fact, madecassoside "pairs well with other antioxidants, retinoids or exfoliating acids," explains Dr. Vaidya. It works cohesively with other active ingredients "to mitigate irritation and dryness." So, rest assured, if you add madecassoside into your routine, there will be no need to forgo your tretinoin, vitamin C, or azelaic acid.

Hannah Picchi, licensed esthetician, shares that madecassoside is very easy to layer. When adding it into your daily routine, "use it after cleansing and toning, and before heavier moisturizers or occlusives," advises Picchi.

Things to Keep In Mind
Like all skincare trends, there is a wrong way to use madecassoside and there are a few common misconceptions that skincare professionals want you to keep in mind. For Picchi, she likes to remind her clients that they will only reap the benefits of madecassoside if they use it regularly in their routine—it should not be used reactively. Also, understand that "calming" doesn't always equal "hydrating," and a layer of moisturizer should always be applied after a madecassoside product.

Bottom line: madecassoside is safe and beneficial for all skin types, but its soothing properties won't take effect overnight. Dr. Vasile reminds her patients that "like any skincare product, it does take a few weeks to work and see results."

Which Madecassoside Product Should You Buy?
Since madecassoside is an ingredient and not a standalone product, you have flexibility in choosing the type of formula that works best for your routine. That said, all three skincare experts we spoke to had the same favorite: La Roche-Posay's Cicaplast Baume B5. "It's a multi-purpose balm that I personally use and recommend on a frequent basis, especially post-procedure," says Dr. Vaidya. "It helps protect the skin, relieve sensitivities, and promote wound healing." Along with madecassoside, it also contains shea butter and glycerin for hydrating and soothing benefits.