Chef Todd Richards is known for his personal, globally inspired take on Southern cuisine, and his Collard Greens Ramen is no exception. Riffing on a memorable bowl of yaka mein he had as a child, Richards' soup begins with a pot of collards and a generous pour of bourbon, which cooks down into an intense potlikker. Shichimi togarashi, a Japanese spice blend of dried orange peel, ginger, sesame seeds, nori, and a mix of dried chiles, finishes off each bowl. You can find it at Asian groceries, Whole Foods, and amazon.com. As Richards puts it, each ham-hock-enriched, noodle-laced bowl is a hearty thank you to his past — with a strong Southern accent.
Grace Parisi’s kids love a particular brand of canned soup filled with chicken meatballs and soggy pasta, but she prefers real minestra maritata (Italian wedding soup). She makes tiny pork meatballs and simmers them with orzo, chickpeas, spinach and parmesan. She occasionally substitutes green beans for the spinach, depending on who is at the table.
Baltic black bread, traditionally made with rye flour and sourdough starter, is dense and sour, with a tight crumb. Its lush rye flavor gives this vegetarian soup earthy depth. A sprinkle of homemade cheese curds and fresh herbs lighten up each bowl.
Sting and Trudie Styler's private chef, Joe Sponzo, grows tomatoes at Il Palagio for his take on the classic Tuscan pappa al pomodoro, a hearty tomato-bread soup. When they're ripe, Sponzo passes them through a food mill to make passato, a concentrated tomato puree he jars for year-round use. He buys his bread in Figline Valdarno, from a bakery that uses a wood-fired oven. "You want a dense, crusty bread, then let it get stale for two days," he says.
Here's the story behind a Chinese mother's restorative soups, and the noodle soup with ginger and turmeric curry paste that her daughter concocts in the winter for comfort food.
Alain Coumont's cool vegan soup gets its creaminess from pureed zucchini, sautéed onion and garlic. It's brightened with purslane, a lemony weed that Coumont plucks from his Languedoc country garden; if purslane is not available at your local farmers' market, substitute baby arugula leaves instead.
The Good News Based on a brothy tortilla soup, this fiery, substantial soup is full of nutty-tasting barley, brown rice and bulgur, creating a dish that's high in fiber. Mary Ellen Diaz says it's one of the most popular recipes she makes for First Slice's soup kitchen. "Latin flavors do well on the street," she explains.
When tomatoes are at their best, take a cue from Hetal Vasavada and don't cook them at all. "In the summer, Indian families often make kachumber salad. It's basically an Indian pico de gallo situation, minus the cilantro," says Vasavada. "My husband loves gazpacho—he's the kind of person who drinks salsa from the jar—so I thought this would be a nice, cool summer dish." Vasavada channeled her love for kachumber, a fresh, cucumber-based Indian salad, to inspire this exciting riff on the classic chilled summery soup. Warm spices and a hint of chile add flavor and heat without overwhelming the fresh tomatoes; sev, a crispy chickpea noodle snack, adds a pleasant crunch.
The name for this simple soup of gently stewed onions, tomatoes, and peppers comes from the Catalan words oli (oil) and aigua (water). The soup can be served warm or chilled, and is customarily eaten with bread, which is topped here with figat (fig jam). The recipe is from chef Felipe Riccio of March restaurant in Houston. To take it to the next level, June Rodil and Mark Sayre, who lead the wine program at March, suggest serving it with a rosé, such as the 2019 Clos Canarelli Corse Figari Rosé, from Corsica, France. "The flavors of summer peppers and rosé are a perfect match, which is why this wine, with notes of soft strawberry and cherry blossom, is paired with the Oliaigua," they say. "The weight of this rosé from Corsica plays well with the dish, which needs a bit of power."
After moving to New York from France in the early 1990s. François Payard became executive pastry chef at Manhattan's Le Bernadin, then at Daniel. He opened Payard Pâtisserie & Bistro in 1997. At the restaurant, Payard's executive chef, Philippe Bertineau, prepares individual servings of this gnocchi in small porcelain crocks or copper pans. For the phyllo crust, he quarters the layered dough (Step 1) and tops the dishes with it; as the phyllo bakes, it molds to the sides of the crocks.
Supersweet tomatoes will make this cold soup extra-delicious. But to enhance the flavor of even less-than-perfect produce, Melissa Rubel Jacobson adds tomato paste, which has a rich, concentrated taste.