Pretty much everyone who walks through the door at Nom Wah orders the har gow—the shrimp dumplings. They’re like the pastrami sandwich at Katz’s. Shrimp dumplings are the quintessential measure of dim sum. When it comes to har gow, a restaurant’s caliber is judged on how thin the dumpling wrapper is and how many folds join the wrapper together. The more folds, the higher the quality of the kitchen and the more dexterous the dumpling maker. Dumpling folds are like thread counts in suits but better, because dumplings are more delicious than suits.
Ingredients
1/2 pound raw shrimp, peeled, deveined, and patted dry, roughly chopped
1 tablespoon neutral oil
1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon chicken powder
1 cup wheat starch (or potato starch)
1/2 cup cornstarch (or tapioca starch)
3 teaspoons lard (or a neutral oil)
1 1/4 cups water
Directions
Make the filling: Mix all the filling ingredients in a large bowl, stirring in one direction for 3 to 5 minutes, until the mixture starts to look and feel sticky. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour while you prepare the dough.
Make the dough: Sift the wheat starch (or potato starch) and cornstarch (or tapioca starch) into a large bowl. In a medium saucepan, bring the to a boil over medium-high heat and slowly pour it into the starch mixture, stirring rapidly with chopsticks. Add the lard (or neutral oil) and continue to stir with chopsticks until a loose dough ball forms. Turn the dough out of the bowl onto a clean counter or work surface. Knead the dough by hand for a couple of minutes, until the dough has formed a smooth ball and feels uniform and elastic.
Roll the dough into a cylinder about 3 inches thick and 1 1/2 to 2 feet long and divide it into 20 equal pieces. Form the pieces into balls. Working quickly and using your hand, flatten each ball into circles about 3 inches in diameter. Cover the dough pieces with a damp paper towel as you make them.
Dampen a towel under which to keep the rest of the dumpling wrappers while you work. Prepare a parchment-lined baking sheet on which to store the already prepared dumplings. Place 1 1/2 teaspoons of filling in the center of each dumpling wrapper. Fold the dumpling into a half-moon shape. Hold the dumpling, seam-side up, between your thumb and index finger. Use the index finger and thumb of your other hand to pinch a section of the dumpling edge and pull it toward the web of the holding hand to make a small pleat. Repeat around the edge of the dumpling until you have between 6 and 8 pleats. (Dumplings can be kept in the refrigerator for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 3 months.)
Set up a steamer following the instructions in the headnote. Working in batches, add the dumplings to the steamer and steam for 6 minutes, until dumpling skin is glossy. Serve immediately.